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NATURAL WINES BY JULIEN MEYER
Domaine Julien Meyer is in Nothalten, a village at the foot of the Vosges between Strasbourg and Colmar. It carries the name of Julien Meyer, who died when his son Patrick was a small boy. Patrick's mother kept the vines going until he took over in 1982, and he now runs it with his wife Mireille. Fresh from wine school, Patrick brought in herbicides and pesticides, watched the vines and wines suffer, and turned back. The domaine has been farmed holistically since 1999, on gneiss, clay, schist and sand at around 250 metres.
Each plot, from Zellberg and Grittermatte to the Muenchberg Grand Cru, is fermented separately with wild yeasts and aged on its lees in old wood, steel or concrete eggs, without added sulphur. Look for the Riesling Muenchberg Grand Cru, the LouLou, a whole-bunch Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, and the skin-fermented Pinot Gris Macération.
