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NATURAL WINES BY JULES & DIDIER GRAPPE
Didier Grappe was an industrial mechanic before training in Beaune and returning home to the Jura to make wine in Saint-Lothain, where he now works with his son Jules. Their 4.7 hectares on red and grey marls grow Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Chardonnay and Savagnin, plus around 1.3 hectares of hybrids like Léon Millot and Seyve Villard that need no spraying. Didier has vowed never to plant classic Jura varieties again.
They use a basket press, ferment spontaneously in stainless steel, age in tank or old oak and add no sulphur. Everything goes under screwcap, and because Didier ignores appellation rules the wines are Vin de France, which is why his Savagnin is labelled Traminer. Good starting points are Pif Purple, a light red from hybrids, Les Insouciantes, a low-alcohol blend of Jura reds, and Chardonnay Longefin. For something older, try the oxidative Vin Yóne 2011.