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NATURAL WINES BY VIÑAS MORA
Viñas Mora, 'wines from the sea', comes from Primošten on Croatia's Dalmatian coast. It was founded by Krešo Petreković, a former sommelier and importer in New York, with Niko Dukan and local winemaker Neno Marinov, who revived an old co-op to keep the local Babić grape alive. The vines are bush-trained in tiny walled plots of three or four plants on rocky limestone terraces just above the Adriatic, with iron-rich red soil. Everything is worked by hand and yields are very low.
The reds are destemmed, fermented with wild yeasts in open vats for four to five days, then aged about a year in fibreglass and neutral 500-litre barrels, with minimal sulphur. The Kaamen series climbs with vine age: Kaamen I from roughly 50-year-old Babić, Kaamen II from 80 to 100-year-old vines, Kaamen III from vines up to a century old. Barbba blends the local Debit, Maraština, Plavina and Lasin.