A traditional wooden Champagne press standing open in the press house

Champagne Petit Clergeot

Petit Clergeot is Paul-Bastien Clergeot, who took back the family vines at Polisot in 2017 after years of them being leased out, and made his first wine in 2018. He has since sold the tractors and works the vineyards by hand. Every bottle is a named single vineyard, bottled Brut Nature with no dosage.

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Taking the family vines back, then selling the tractors

Paul-Bastien Clergeot took over in 2017. The land was already in the family, but it had been leased out to others to farm, so what he inherited was not a working estate so much as the chance to build one. His first harvest went through the press in 2018.

He holds 8 hectares in total, and from 2025 he is concentrating on 4.5 of them, which is a decision very few growers make in the direction he has made it. The heart of the holding is in Polisot, in the Côte des Bar, with further parcels at Les Riceys and at Montgueux, roughly fifty kilometres north.

The farming is the part worth dwelling on. He has sold his tractors and works the rows by hand with small tools. No herbicides are used; treatments are limited to sulphur and copper. Compost is made from horse and cow manure, and sheep and pigs graze the vineyards.

Polisot is a small village with an unusual number of growers working this way. Champagne Piollot and Marie Courtin are both there too.

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Bottle of Champagne Petit Clergeot a Polisot with a poured glass and the cork beside it

Chevry and Les Commes: two slopes above one village

Petit Clergeot does not make a house blend. Each wine is a named vineyard, which means the differences between the bottles are differences in the ground rather than in the recipe.

Chevry is the cool one. The parcel sits down by the river at Polisot, planted in 1975, on Kimmeridgian soils. Ours is the 2023, a Pinot Noir raised only in stainless steel, which is a deliberate choice: no wood, nothing to soften the edges, so the cool site comes through as tension rather than richness.

Les Commes is the opposite face of the same village, a south-facing hilltop above Polisot with vines from 1971 on calcareous clay. Ours is the 2022, a blanc de noirs bottled Brut Nature. Here he uses stainless steel and some barrique together, and it is the fuller and more direct of the two.

The rest of the range runs to Haut Revers du Chûtat, a blanc de blancs off the chalk at Montgueux, and Le Gang des Vieilles, a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend from old vines that is the only assembled wine he makes. He calls that one his cuvée de trottoir, the everyday bottle.

A grower hand-disgorging a bottle of Champagne Petit Clergeot, the frozen plug firing out in a spray

Brut Nature, spontaneous ferments, and a little amphora

Everything ferments on its own yeasts, and the wines go mainly into stainless steel, with amphorae and some used wooden barrels alongside for the cuvées that call for them. Chevry sees steel only. Les Commes is split between steel and barrique.

All of it is bottled Brut Nature at zero dosage. No sugar is added at disgorgement on any wine in the range, which in Champagne is a decision you can only take if the fruit is ripe enough and the vineyard work is good enough to carry the wine without help.

Sulphur use is kept low. Volumes are small, which is the natural consequence of 4.5 hectares worked by hand and split across named parcels rather than pooled into one cuvée.

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Champagne is the coldest of the classic French wine regions, about 150 kilometres east of Paris, on chalk deep enough that the cellars are cut straight into it. The grapes are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier, with a handful of growers keeping Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris alive. What matters for natural wine is the split between the big houses, who buy most of their fruit, and the grower Champagnes who farm their own and bottle it themselves. The growers are where the low dosage and low sulphur bottles come from, and where a single village actually tastes like itself. Producers include Mouzon Leroux Champagne, Champagne Piollot and Moussé Fils.

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FAQ about Champagne Petit Clergeot

Who makes Petit Clergeot Champagne?

Paul-Bastien Clergeot. He took the family vines back in 2017 after they had been leased out to other growers, and pressed his first harvest in 2018.

Where is Petit Clergeot based?

In Polisot, in the Côte des Bar at the southern end of Champagne, with further parcels at Les Riceys and at Montgueux about fifty kilometres north. He holds 8 hectares and from 2025 is concentrating on 4.5 of them.

What is the difference between Chevry and Les Commes?

Both are Pinot Noir from Polisot, but from opposite ends of the village. Chevry is a cool riverside parcel planted in 1975 on Kimmeridgian soil, raised only in stainless steel. Les Commes is a south-facing hilltop with vines from 1971 on calcareous clay, raised in steel and barrique together, and it is the fuller of the two.

Is Petit Clergeot Brut Nature?

Yes, the whole range is. No sugar is added at disgorgement on any of the wines.

How is Petit Clergeot farmed?

By hand. He has sold his tractors and works the rows with small tools. No herbicides are used, treatments are limited to sulphur and copper, compost is made from horse and cow manure, and sheep and pigs graze the vineyards.

Which Petit Clergeot should I start with?

Les Commes if you want the fuller, more generous side of Polisot Pinot Noir, Chevry if you want the cool, taut, steel-only one. They are the same grape from the same village and they taste properly different, which is the whole point of buying them as named vineyards.