FRANK CORNELISSEN | SUSUCARU 2019 REVIEW
The 2019 vintage of Frank Cornsellisen's 2019 Susucaru shows a progression away from 'glou glou' drinkability to hints of more serious aspects, lik...
Read moreFrank Cornelissen is a Belgian who has become one of the most famous winemakers on Mount Etna in Sicily. Before making wine he worked in the wine trade, selling Bordeaux and Burgundy, and a trip to Georgia in the 1990s changed how he thought about wine.
He arrived on Etna in 2000 and made his first vintage in 2001 from less than half a hectare. Today he farms around 24 hectares on the north side of the volcano, between 600 and 1,000 metres, including many old bush vines, plus olive trees and fruit trees.
Frank does not like the natural wine label. In his words, he does not make natural wine, he just makes wine with nothing added.
Susucaru is the wine most people know first: a fresh, light field blend of red and white grapes, made as a rosato, a rosso and a bianco. Susucaru Rosso was first made in 2003 under the name Contadino, a field blend led by Nerello Mascalese.
MunJebel is the more serious range, with a MunJebel Rosso, a MunJebel Bianco and single-contrada reds from individual vineyards. At the top sits Magma, pure Nerello Mascalese from the contrada Barbabecchi, from vines planted around 1910.
Supply is very limited and the wines sell out fast. Check the list below for what we have right now.
The main grape is Nerello Mascalese, alongside Nerello Cappuccio, Alicante, Minnella, Carricante, Catarratto and other local varieties. New vines are planted ungrafted, from his own selections, and yields are tiny.
In the vineyard Frank tries not to treat the vines at all, not even with the copper and sulphur most chemical-free growers use, and only steps in when a difficult year leaves no choice. The soils are volcanic and are rebalanced with buckwheat rather than compost.
In the cellar the grapes are destemmed and fermented with their own yeasts in neutral tubs. The wines age in epoxy-lined tanks and in terracotta amphorae buried in the volcanic rock. Additions are kept to an absolute minimum, with at most a very small amount of sulphur, so the wines should be stored cool, below 16°C.
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EXPLORE ITALIAN NATURAL WINE PRODUCERS
On the north side of Mount Etna in Sicily, with vineyards between 600 and 1,000 metres.
Frank Cornelissen's best-known wine: a light field blend of red and white grapes from Etna, made as a rosato, a rosso and a bianco.
His top wine, made from Nerello Mascalese grown in the contrada Barbabecchi, from vines planted around 1910.
Mainly Nerello Mascalese, plus Nerello Cappuccio, Alicante, Minnella, Carricante, Catarratto and other local varieties.
Additions are kept to an absolute minimum, with at most a very small amount of sulphur.
Cool, below 16°C, as the wines are made with almost no additions.
The 2019 vintage of Frank Cornsellisen's 2019 Susucaru shows a progression away from 'glou glou' drinkability to hints of more serious aspects, lik...
Read more