Sicily is the most exciting wine region in Italy right now, and it splits neatly into two worlds. In the east rises Mount Etna, an active volcano and one of the most thrilling terroirs on earth. In the west, near Palermo, sit the sun baked hills of Alcamo and further west Marsala.
Etna is all about altitude, black volcanic soil and old vines, some ungrafted and well over a hundred years old. The main red grape is Nerello Mascalese, which gives pale, perfumed, mineral reds often compared to Burgundy or Barolo. The main white is Carricante, taut and saline, as well as Caterratto.
The producer who put natural Etna on the map is Frank Cornelissen. A Belgian former wine trader, he moved to the mountain in 2000 with a radical idea. But he is not alone, there are many natural wine producers on Etna. Another, Etnella, run by Davide Bentivegna, who left a corporate life in Milan for the slopes, makes soulful, characterful Etna wines with the same hands off spirit.
Head west to Alcamo and you meet the Viola brothers. Alessandro Viola works with Grillo, Catarratto and Nero d'Avola, making bright, stony, energetic wines. His brother Aldo Viola works separately nearby, leaning into skin contact and wilder, more textural styles.
