Lombardy is Italy's wealthy, industrious north, centred on Milan, and its wine scene is easy to overlook next to flashier neighbours. That would be a mistake. Tucked into its lakes, plains and mountain valleys are some of Italy's finest sparkling wines and a growing natural wine movement with real energy.
The jewel is Franciacorta, in the hills between the city of Brescia and Lake Iseo. This is Italy's answer to Champagne, made by the same traditional method, with a second fermentation in the bottle and long ageing on the lees. Using Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco, the best Franciacorta is fine, creamy and complex, and it comfortably rivals Champagne while often costing less. For many Italians it is the celebration wine of choice.
Lombardy's natural wine story is led, fittingly, by a sparkling rebel. Alessandra Divella, based in Gussago in the Franciacorta hills, is the first woman to own an estate in the area, and she chose to walk away from the famous Franciacorta name to make wine exactly as she wanted. A similar producer is Nicola Gatta
Beyond the bubbles, natural growers are popping up across the region, from the mountains of Valtellina to the hills of the Oltrepò