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NATURAL WINES BY KATHARINA GESSL
Katharina Gessl is the fifth generation of her family to make wine in Zellerndorf, in the western Weinviertel of Lower Austria. She took over the family winery in 2022, aged 25, and made a clean break from her parents' style with her own choice of vineyards. She started with 2.5 hectares across four plots and has since grown to around nine. The soils are mostly calcareous, and one site on granite carries 50-year-old vines.
She ferments and ages in stainless steel, acacia and oak barrels. Her pet nats are pressed from whole bunches, bottled mid-fermentation and disgorged after a year. The Gelber Muskateller Schlingel, meaning rascal, gets a day on the skins. Hawara, a pure Grüner Veltliner, is Austrian slang for a mate. We have Hawara, the St. Laurent Spompanadeln Rot and Gspusi Rosé, a Zweigelt.