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NATURAL WINES BY NINO BARRACO
Nino Barraco makes wine around Marsala in western Sicily, with some vines growing just metres from the sea, and you can taste the salt in wines like Vignammare. His parents and grandparents were farmers who sold base wine to the big Marsala houses. Nino took over in 2004 and started bottling himself. He now works 20 hectares across six sites, from sea level up to 140 metres. Soils range from clay-limestone to iron-rich red earth.
Marsala is mostly known for cheap cooking wine, and Nino is one of the producers changing that with serious, emotional wines from local grapes like Catarratto, Zibibbo and Nero d'Avola. Whites get around four days on the skins and ferment wild in steel. Sulphur goes in only after malolactic, and some cuvées get none. Vignammare is Grillo from vines in the sand dunes by the shore, and Rosammare is a Nero d'Avola rosé.
